Where to eat in Liguria
Harbour trattorias, proper seafood restaurants and a handful of real addresses in the old town. We do not select who pays: we select who cooks well, with the right focaccia and the right anchovies from Monterosso.
Ligurian cuisine has few dishes but takes them seriously. To the west you find trattorias bordering France: rabbit alla ligure, buridda fish stew, vegetable tarts. To the east pesto rules, but the real difference is handmade pasta, trofie or mandilli. Genoa sits in the middle, with its tradition of peasant food turned refined: farinata, focaccia di Recco, cappon magro. Below you will find our addresses divided by province, with the criteria we use to assess them written clearly.
The first restaurant guides are coming soon.
Before you book
Do I need to book in advance?
At weekends in July and August, yes, especially for seafood restaurants on the harbour. In low season many trattorias take walk-ins without a problem. Always check whether they close for lunch or dinner.
What time are lunch and dinner in Liguria?
Lunch starts at 12:30 and closes at 14:00, often earlier. Dinner begins at 19:30 and ends by 22:00. Arriving at 13:45 or 21:45 is never a good idea.
Are seafood restaurants always expensive?
It depends on the place and the day. The set lunch menu is almost always the best-value choice: fresh fish mains at prices well below the a la carte menu.
When do seafood restaurants close?
Almost always on Monday, because the fish market is closed on Sunday. Some also close on Tuesday. Check before you drive there.